History

Timeline

1836 - Josiah A. Noonan, a land speculator, purchased a 156-acre parcel of land.

1845 - Josiah's sister, Clarissa, and her husband Harmon J. Hill relocated to the plat from New York, and establish Hill Farm.

1893 - After 48 years of operation, the Hill Farm is sold to Benjamin F. Lewis

1897 - Lewis sells the farm to University of Wisconsin and the land becomes known as University Hill Farm

1953 - The University of Wisconsin's Board of Regents decides to sell the land for development in order to relocate operations outside of Madison.

1954 - The City of Madison develops plans and turns them over to the University's Board of Regents.

1955 - The University's Board of Regents contracts Carl L. Gardner & Associates to produce a master plan. The plan is accepted, and the first plats went up for sale! Construction started on the first two homes.

1957 - The Charles R Van Hise Elementary School was completed and Covenant Presbyterian Church was started. University Hill Farms Neighborhood Association founded.

2015 - University Hill Farms Neighborhood added to U.S. National Register of Historic Places

Description

The University Hill Farms Historic District is a well-preserved planned community on Madison's near west side, developed from a 620-acre parcel once used by the University of Wisconsin as an experimental farm. By the early 1950s, the expanding city made the farm less practical for its original purpose and more valuable for development. In response, the University decided to convert the land into a planned community, using the proceeds from lot sales to fund a new, larger experimental farm further from the city.

The University hired the Chicago-based planning firm Carl L. Gardner & Associates in 1955 to create a master plan, resulting in a design with curvilinear streets, designated areas for various uses, and a mix of residential, commercial, and institutional spaces. Development began in late 1955, and by 1964, 87% of the district’s buildings were completed, mostly in the Modern Movement style. The area became popular among Madison’s professional and middle-class families and has remained successful both financially and as a community.

The district is bordered by major roads—Sheboygan Avenue, Mineral Point Road, Midvale Boulevard, and Whitney Way—and is surrounded by various suburbs and newly developed neighborhoods. The University’s decision to develop the property was timely, given the city’s rapid growth and high housing demand. The plan included infrastructure development in stages to manage demand and retain control over construction quality through restrictive covenants.

Notable features of the district include single-family Ranch-style homes, duplexes, garden apartments, and high-rise buildings, all following the original master plan’s vision. Key amenities such as parks, a school, and shopping centers were integrated into the design. The community continues to maintain its historical appearance with minimal alterations, thanks in part to its National Register listing, which helps preserve its character for the future.

Significance

The University Hill Farms Historic District is listed on the National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) under Criterion C for its architectural significance and Criterion A for its impact on community planning and development, both at the local level.

From a national perspective, the district stands out as a noteworthy example of mid-20th century suburban planning and architectural design. Developed starting in 1953, it represents a comprehensive and intentional approach to suburban growth, reflecting broader trends in community planning and architectural development during this period.

The district is largely composed of the University Hill Farms subdivision on Madison's west side, which transformed a 620-acre University of Wisconsin farm, acquired in 1897, into a planned suburban community. By 1953, the farm's agricultural utility had diminished due to the city's expansion, prompting the University to seek legislative approval to sell it. The proceeds were to fund the purchase of a larger farm further from Madison, ensuring the continuation of agricultural research.

In response, the University, collaborating with the City of Madison, created a master plan in 1955 that envisioned a self-contained community incorporating residential, commercial, and recreational areas. This plan designated nearly 800 lots for single-family homes, alongside apartment buildings, churches, a school, and various amenities. To manage growth and infrastructure costs, the University marketed the lots in stages. This strategy proved successful, with initial lots selling rapidly from late 1955 onward.

By 1964, the district had seen the construction of approximately 650 houses, 12 apartment complexes, two churches, a school, office buildings, a swimming pool, a park, a nursing home, and a regional shopping center. The architectural landscape from this period remains largely intact, providing a representative sample of mid-20th century design in Madison.

The period of significance for the district spans from 1955 to 1989, encompassing the years during which the district’s contributing buildings were constructed. This timeline includes the initial development phase starting in 1955 and the final phase of construction between 1985 and 1989, which completed the original master plan. The last portion of development involved converting the College of Agriculture’s former seed farm into a residential area, finalizing the district’s growth and preserving its historical and architectural integrity.

Community Planning and Development

Originally part of the Town of Madison, the land now comprising the district was largely used for agriculture until the early 20th century. Early suburban development began in the mid-1850s in a section of town that housed three stone quarries supplying Madison sandstone for notable early buildings. This modest development along University Avenue, which runs west from downtown Madison past the University of Wisconsin campus and parallel to the Milwaukee & Mississippi Railroad tracks laid in 1854, marked the start of suburban expansion. Two small plats, "Lakeland" (1855) and "Quarrytown" (1863), were established in this area. These early efforts aimed to capitalize on the industrial activity generated by the quarries and the new railroad line. However, these ventures did not fully realize their potential, and the plats remained largely undeveloped until after World War I. The 1890 Plat Book of Dane County, for instance, shows only four buildings in Quarrytown by that time. Nevertheless, these initial developments set the stage for future growth.

In the 1890s, Madison's population growth led to the creation of the city's first suburbs, including Wingra Park (1889) and University Heights (1893), which catered to more affluent residents. These suburbs, known as streetcar suburbs due to their proximity to streetcar lines, allowed residents to commute to downtown businesses and the expanding University of Wisconsin campus. In the pre-automobile era, such proximity to public transportation was crucial. Streetcars also provided access to the city's cemeteries starting in 1897, with a new line extending westward along Regent Street to Forest Hill and Calvary cemeteries. This extension opened 722 acres of land for development, significantly boosting property values in nearby suburbs like Wingra Park and University Heights.

The real success of these suburbs only came after 1903 when they were annexed by the city, gaining access to essential services such as sewers, water, gas, electricity, concrete streets, sidewalks, and Randall Elementary School. With these improvements, suburban development on Madison's west side increased steadily.

Despite the city's westward expansion, much of the land around University Hill Farms remained rural and agricultural at the turn of the century. Access to this land was provided by the Sauk Road (University Avenue) and Mineral Point Road (now Speedway Road and Mineral Point Road), both of which had been in use since at least the 1850s.

The core of what would become the University Hill Farms was a 156-acre parcel bordered by today’s University Avenue to the north, Midvale Boulevard to the east, Regent Street to the south, and N. Eau Claire Avenue to the west. This land was initially acquired by Josiah A. Noonan (1813-1882), who had helped survey Madison’s original plat in 1836. Noonan purchased this farmland west of the future city, among other local properties. He later became the publisher of Madison's first newspaper, the Wisconsin Enquirer, and went on to start newspapers in Milwaukee, where he also became the city’s first postmaster.

Noonan's sister, Clarissa, married Harmon J. Hill in 1845. The couple moved from New York to Milwaukee, where Josiah Noonan helped Hill secure a job managing the Milwaukee post office. Soon after, Noonan persuaded Hill to move to Madison and take over his farm property. Hill purchased the farm in 1849 and became the first county supervisor from the Town of Madison, also serving as town treasurer for 13 years. In 1857, Hill built a notable stone Italianate Gabled Ell farmhouse on the property. Hill continued farming until his retirement in 1893, after which he sold the land to Benjamin F. Lewis. The farm was subsequently purchased by the University of Wisconsin in 1897 and became known as the University Hill Farm.

The University bought this property to establish a new experimental farm, replacing its earlier 196-acre farm located west of the campus, which had been in use since 1866. By 1897, the original farm was being encroached upon by the University’s expanding campus, and mechanized agriculture and industrialized dairy farming created a need for a larger, more accessible site. The Hill Farm purchase was the first step in developing several experimental farms on the near west side of Madison. Over the years, the University expanded the Hill Farm with additional land purchases: the 58-acre E. C. Hammersley Farm in 1903, the 20-acre Vilberg farm in 1910, the 70-acre Koch Farm in 1914, the 40-acre C. P. Parsons property in 1941, the 40-acre E. Backus property in 1945, the 99-acre H. B. Gregg Farm in 1945, the 10-acre L. J. Oscar property in 1947, and the 120-acre William A. Gugel, Jr. Farm in 1947.

By 1947, when the University Hill Farms reached its final size of 613 acres, the surrounding rural environment had transformed significantly. By the end of World War II, the area was encircled by suburbs that had expanded westward since the early 20th century. To the east were the pre-World War II suburbs of Westmorland and Sunset Village; to the north was the Village of Shorewood Hills; to the west were the pre-war suburb of Crestwood and the post-war suburbs of Blackhawk Park and Merrill Heights; and to the south were the post-war suburbs of Midvale Heights, Oak Park Heights, and Kenmore. Closer to the Hill Farms were the fully developed Robin Park and Eighth Addition to Sunset Village subdivisions, located in the southeast corner near the intersection of S. Midvale Boulevard and Mineral Point Road, extending down Midvale Boulevard to Segoe Road.

This suburban expansion was driven largely by the growth of motorized buses and, to a lesser extent, automobile ownership. The city’s streetcar lines had reached as far west as Forest Hill Cemetery by 1897, but extending them further proved unprofitable due to low population density in the new suburbs. By 1915, gasoline-powered vehicles were becoming the primary mode of transportation, fueling further suburban growth. New suburbs like College Hills (the first part of Shorewood Hills) and Nakoma were designed to appeal to homeowners commuting by bus or car. Developers of new west side suburbs strategically located their developments adjacent to major streets like University Avenue, Regent Street, and Monroe Street, which were key routes for transportation.

The first new subdivision in the area between Nakoma and Shorewood Hills was University Park Addition, platted in June 1916, bounded by University Avenue, N. Blackhawk Avenue, Stevens Street, and the western edge of Quarry Park. More significant was the West Wingra Addition, platted in December 1916 by Otto E. Toepfer, Jr., marking the start of Westmorland’s development on a 60-acre parcel of former farmland he had purchased in 1899.

West side platting in Madison slowed significantly until after World War I, with new housing demand only reviving in 1925. That year, the Findlay Park Addition was created by replating parts of the 1850s Quarrytown and Lakeland plats. During this period, the City of Madison planned ahead by purchasing a hilltop site for a new high-service water reservoir, located between Glenway Street and Larkin Street, two blocks south of Regent Street. Completed in 1926, this 6,000,000-gallon concrete reservoir, now known as Reservoir Park, was designed to serve the west side of the city.

In 1925, Otto Toepfer Jr. platted the First Addition to his West Wingra Addition, a 23-lot expansion. Later that year, he sold much of his remaining land to A. O. Paunack, a banker and land developer. Paunack, a former partner in Highland Park Co., platted the land as the Westmorland Subdivision in November 1926. Westmorland became the first major new suburb in the area, and by 1928, two additional plats were added.

However, the Stock Market Crash of 1929 and the ensuing Depression halted construction, leaving fewer than 20 homes built on 276 lots by the end of that year. The Depression also stopped new platting on the west side, with only one small plat recorded between 1929 and 1938. Despite this, the growth of the University of Wisconsin and new federal agencies in Madison, such as the U.S. Forest Products Laboratory, created a demand for housing that existing developments could not meet.

As the Depression receded, platting activity resumed. The first new plat was Sunset Village, created in May 1938 by McKennas, Inc., bounded by Westmorland Boulevard, Hillcrest Drive, S. Owen Drive, and Mineral Point Road. Sunset Village was quickly successful, with 35 homes completed or underway in its first year. Its design followed FHA guidelines, and most homes were Colonial Revival or Tudor Revival style.

McKenna expanded Sunset Village with a First Addition in June 1939 and followed with the Pilgrim Village Addition, developed by W. E. Gifford, Jr., in late 1939. The Second Addition to Sunset Village was platted in April 1940, and the Third Addition followed in December 1940.

These new suburbs thrived, leading to a building boom in the older suburb of Westmorland. New residents requested bus service extensions, which were implemented by August 1940 following a successful petition to the State Public Service Commission. The city also extended water and sewer lines to Westmorland and Sunset Village, acknowledging the area's rapid growth.

By early 1941, Sunset Village had over 160 new houses, with 27 more under construction. The end of the Depression and the onset of World War II kept platting and building activity high, partly due to concerns about future material availability. In April 1941, John C. McKenna recorded his large Fourth Addition to Sunset Village, bounded by N. Meadow Lane, Regent Street, North Blackhawk Avenue, and University Avenue, which was later renamed Sunset Ridge.

World War II brought restrictions that halted new construction. However, after the war ended, a surge in housing demand transformed the area. By 1945, much of the near west side was still part of the Town of Madison, though the city had expanded to include North Franklin Avenue, Speedway Road, and Glenway Street. Utilities, including water, sewer, and electricity, reached deep into the west side, and local children attended city schools like Dudgeon Elementary and West Senior High.

Post-war, there was a boom in platting. By the end of 1946, eight new plats had been established, extending Madison’s western edge across Midvale Boulevard from the University’s Hill Farms. Shorewood Hills occupied land north of University Avenue, and new plats also emerged south of Mineral Point Road. By 1953, the 613-acre Hill Farms was increasingly seen as an obstacle to westward expansion, both for the city and the University. As noted in the standard history of the University of Wisconsin, the large UW experimental farm was blocking the city’s westward growth.

In 1953, the University Board of Regents decided to sell the Hill Farms land to fund new experimental farms further from the city. They first sought legislative approval and then formed a Regents Special Committee on Agricultural Lands, which included Oscar Rennebohm, Wilbur Renk, and John D. Jones, Jr., to manage the sale and collaborate with city officials.

The regents appointed Professor Richard U. Ratcliff, an expert in land development, to oversee the project. Ratcliff, who had experience in real estate and city planning, was well-suited for the task. The Madison Board of Realtors estimated the land could sell for about $1,000 per acre if sold as raw land, potentially totaling $600,000. However, they believed the University could earn more by developing the land itself.

In January 1954, the City of Madison provided a preliminary development plan drafted by planning engineer Walter K. Johnson. His plan included a 40-acre regional park, an 80-acre neighborhood center, and a 53-acre shopping center at University Avenue and Midvale Boulevard. It also featured apartment blocks as buffers and long, narrow cul-de-sacs to reduce traffic.

The community response was positive, though the State and City had specific interests. The State Building Commission requested 30 acres for future state office buildings, while the City agreed to buy 85 acres for schools and parks for $206,250. The Regents were generally supportive, and Professor Ratcliff planned to develop and sell 100 acres of residential lots initially.

However, the Regents Special Committee had concerns about the Johnson plan's land allocation and street layout. Therefore, on March 2, 1955, they hired Carl L. Gardner & Associates of Chicago to create a master plan. Gardner, a renowned land planner, was tasked with refining the development strategy.

Additionally, a survey conducted by Gordon Ross Stephens of the proposed shopping center site indicated high traffic volume and strong economic potential, suggesting that the site could support a regional shopping center. This reinforced the plan's viability and highlighted the area's promising growth prospects.

In May of 1955, the master plan for Hill Farms created by Carl L. Gardner & Assoc. was unveiled and incorporated some substantial changes from the Johnson plan, as described in the Description Section of this nomination (Section 7, p. 3). After some give and take with the city, Gardner’s plan was finally adopted and became the basis for the development that was to follow.

After securing approval for Gardner’s plan, the University quickly prepared the first part of the development for platting and sale. The Regents, persuaded by Professor Ratcliff and the Special Committee, decided it was in the University’s best interest to develop Hill Farms incrementally to avoid market saturation and better manage infrastructure costs. 

The initial phase, the 100-acre East Hill portion, included the 22.11-acre school grounds already purchased by the City. Bounded by S. Segoe Road, Waukesha Street, Mineral Point Road, and the future Cheyenne Trail, it was known as the Original (East Hill) Plat of Hill Farms. The Regents hired John C. Haley & Sons as the contract brokers and Mead & Hunt for engineering and surveying services. The plat was recorded on October 7, 1955, and lot sales began. On October 18, the Madison School Board selected Weiler & Strang’s Contemporary design for the new 18-room Hill Farms elementary school, slated to open in fall 1957.

This new plat promised much to prospective homeowners. Unlike the predominantly single-family suburban developments nearby, Hill Farms included a retail center to fill a local void. The University’s involvement ensured timely development, and future residents could expect a new elementary school and later a junior high school. Restrictive covenants administered by a three-person committee set up in November 1955 provided additional security. 

The East Hill Plat, designed to attract young middle-class and professional families, began selling its 124 lots in November 1955. By December 3, two building permits were issued. Most lots were sold to builders, with discounts for those purchasing three or more. Builders either had clients in mind or built speculatively.

By July 1956, street grading had started, 63 lots were sold, and the first houses were built. Construction of the Charles R. Van Hise Elementary School began, aiming for a fall 1957 opening. By the end of 1956, most East Hill lots had sold, leading to the creation of additional plats: First Addition, Hilltop Addition, West Hill Addition, and Regent Addition throughout 1957.

The 1957 Parade of Homes, held in the East Hill Plat, was a major success, drawing over 10,000 visitors. Houses ranged from $22,000 to $27,000 and sold quickly. Also notable was the formation of the Hill Farms Neighborhood Association, now one of Madison's oldest and most active.

In early 1958, the South Hill Addition was platted. By year-end, Van Hise School’s enrollment had grown from 526 to 650 students. The Parade of Homes that year featured 21 houses, including a two-story model and designs blending ranch and Colonial styles.

In 1959, the Parkway and North Hill Additions were platted. The Parade of Homes showcased a Frank Lloyd Wright-designed house, attracting significant attention. The subdivision was maturing, with paved streets, growing landscaping, and the start of larger developments. By the end of 1959, the Karen Arms Garden Apartments were under construction, marking a shift towards multi-family housing. Additionally, the Neighborhood Association began fundraising for a community pool.

In 1960, Hill Farms hosted the Parade of Homes, which was shared with the new Arbor Hills subdivision south of the South Beltline Highway. The Hill Farms portion was held on Door Drive, part of the North Hill Addition. By then, most of Hill Farms' single-family residential lots had been sold, with 510 houses built. The area was popular among professionals, with home prices ranging from just under $20,000 to $60,000, mostly between $25,000 and $30,000.

With the residential phase nearly complete, attention shifted to new projects. The Hill Farm Swim Club's pool and bathhouse were completed in summer 1960, and construction began on high-rise apartment towers north of the park, a shift from garden apartments due to the planned state office complex nearby. Additional Karen Arms Garden Apartments were also under construction, alongside the Wisconsin Life Insurance Co. Building, and office buildings near the future shopping center.

In 1961, construction began on the Hill Farms State Office Building Complex, although it was never completed. Work also started on the Hilldale Shopping Center, located at University Avenue and N. Midvale Boulevard. The University aimed to develop the center through Kelab, Inc., a non-profit that would lease land to Hilldale, Inc., a taxable corporation. This arrangement faced legal challenges but was upheld by the Wisconsin Supreme Court in December 1960. The shopping center, designed by Grassold-Johnson & Assoc., was completed in 1962. Though not part of the University Hill Farms Historic District, Hilldale remains a key retail center in west Madison.

On March 9, 1962, Regent Rennebohm reported to the University of Wisconsin Regents on the Hill Farms project, highlighting the successful achievement of its two main objectives: establishing a new research station in Arlington and developing a vibrant residential, retail, and office community on 600 acres. By 1962, twelve subdivisions had been approved, adding $24 million in assessed property value to Madison. Of the 760 lots, 650 homes were built or under construction, with a neighborhood population of 3,100 expected to reach 5,500.

While Rennebohm's report was accurate, it didn't cover all developments. Unplatted areas remained, and changes outside the Regents' control necessitated adjustments to the Gardner master plan. By 1964, the Karen Arms Garden Apartments were fully occupied, appealing to both young families and the elderly. The Attic Angels Nursing Home, designed by John J. Flad & Assoc. and completed in early 1963, also attracted elderly residents.

After the first state office building was completed, the state decided to concentrate future offices downtown. This led to the sale of half the state property to the Red Cross and shelved plans for additional high-rise apartments. In 1965, the Hilldale Towers Apartments were built on Sheboygan Avenue. Later, in 1969, developers Nathan Brand and Frederick E. Mohs, Jr. rezoned land for garden apartments, leading to the successful Carolina Apartments and, in 1970, the Normandy Apartments.

On January 6, 1975, the Regents authorized the platting of the former Gugel Farm, which led to new home-building activity, including duplexes on Manitowoc Parkway. In 1976, the Attic Angels added an apartment tower to their nursing home.

Finally, in 1983, the Regents released the Seed Farm Plat for development. Purchased by Brand & Mohs in 1985, it became the Monticello Apartments Complex, completed in 1989. With this, the Hill Farms subdivision was complete. Aside from changes to the commercial areas around Hilldale Shopping Center, the University Hill Farms subdivision retains its late 1950s and early 1960s character. By 1964, 87% of the district's buildings were completed, giving the area its distinctive appearance.

Under Wisconsin law, recorded covenants are unenforceable after 60 years unless a new instrument extending the period is recorded, which means that covenants and deed restrictions started to expire for a bulk of the plats starting in 2015. For the Gugel Addition to Hill Farms, recorded on January 6, 1975, this 60-year period ends on January 6, 2035. As a result, the Architectural Review Committee decided that they would no longer review architectural approvals or variances for plats beyond the Gugel Addition, except in rare cases where evidence of a timely recorded extension of covenants is provided. The ARC will also not handle approvals or disapprovals for sheds or outbuildings, except for those in the Gugel Addition.

Architecture

Wrightian Style 

Wrightian style refers to buildings designed in a manner similar to those by Frank Lloyd Wright, even if not directly by him. This term is relatively new and lacks universal acceptance due to Wright's diverse designs. Generally, a 'Wrightian' building resembles Wright's work, particularly from after 1930.

In the University Hill Farms Historic District, the most notable Wrightian example is the Rudin House, designed by Wright himself. It is one of only two prefabricated single-family homes Wright created for Marshal Erdman and Associates. Built in 1959 for the Madison Parade of Homes, the house was manufactured at Erdman’s now-defunct factory in Madison.

• Prof. Walter & Ellen Rudin House 110 Marinette Trail 1959 

There are other fine examples of the style in the district designed by others; these are listed below. 

• Richard & Barbara Woroch House 4809 Fond du Lac Trail 1961 

• Prof. Edward J. & Eleanor Blakely House 4746 Lafayette Drive 1958 

• Robert N. & Lois Dick House 106 Richland Lane 1957 

Ranch Style

Inspired by historic ranch houses in the southwestern U.S. and California, the Ranch style was modernized in the 1930s by California architects like William Wurster and Cliff May, and popularized by Sunset Magazine. Frank Lloyd Wright's Prairie School Style also influenced its development. By WWII, Ranch style designs appeared in catalogs and were widely adopted after the war, becoming common in mid-20th-century suburbs.

Ranch houses are typically one-story with rectangular, L-shaped, or U-shaped plans and often feature attached garages or carports. Common traits include asymmetrical shapes, low-pitched roofs, and wide eave overhangs. Roof forms include hipped, cross-gabled, and side-gabled. Cladding materials vary, with combinations of wood, brick, and stone being common. 

The district contains 613 Ranch style houses, including 116 Split-Level and 76 Raised Ranch (Bi-Level) examples.

Raised Ranch or Bi-Level Style

A subtype of Ranch style, Raised Ranch or Bi-Level designs adapt to hilly sites by having garages in partially or fully exposed basements. These houses maintain a one-story profile for living spaces, with garages and utility rooms in the lower level. Of the 613 Ranch houses in the district, 76 are Raised Ranch. Notable examples include houses built by Byrant W. Fisher and Donald Sampson. 

Split-Level Style

Another Ranch subtype, Split-Level houses have three levels of interior space with distinct areas for living, service, and sleeping. The lower level often includes a garage and family room, while the mid-level contains living areas, and the upper level has bedrooms. Of the district's 613 Ranch houses, 116 are Split-Level. Notable designs include those by Clifford P. Kolberg, which feature single gable roofs with unequal slopes.

Contemporary Style

The Contemporary style, emerging after WWII, is characterized by modern, unadorned designs with flat roofs and innovative materials. This style includes flat-roofed one-story houses derived from the International style, and a diverse range of single-family homes and other buildings. Notable examples in the district include the Park Towers Apartments and Attic Angels Nursing Home Tower by John J. Flad & Assoc., the Karen Arms Garden Apartments by Weiler & Strang, and a Contemporary-style school and church designed by Weiler & Strang and William V. Kaeser, respectively.

Colonial Revival Style

Colonial Revival, the second most common style in the district with 114 examples, reflects a continued interest in traditional designs. This style includes Cape Cod houses, which are one-and-one-half stories with side-gabled roofs, and more popular two-story variants with a side-attached garage. Most houses have masonry on the first story and clapboard on the upper stories, with materials varying by age.